Jacob & Co. Unveils Angel Cut: A Patented Diamond Cut Debuts in the Billionaire Double Tourbillon
As Jacob & Co. marks its 40th anniversary, the House celebrates with an invention. From the very beginning, his vision extended beyond convention. He did not simply want to set diamonds; he wanted to reimagine how they could exist. Over four decades, that instinct gave rise to a singular creative universe, where high jewelry and high watchmaking became one language.
Today, Jacob & Co. unveils the Angel Cut: a proprietary and patented diamond cut conceived entirely in-house, developed over years of refinement, and introduced as a new expression of light, form, and precision.
The name is deeply personal. Derived from Angela, the wife of founder Jacob Arabo, the Angel Cut is both an innovation in gemology and a tribute to enduring love, partnership, and inspiration. Its significance is also reflected in its structure: the Angel Cut features 37 precisely engineered facets, a number that marks Jacob and Angela’s 37 years of marriage. In this way, the cut becomes both a technical invention and a symbol of devotion translated into geometry.
At its core, the Angel Cut addresses a longstanding challenge in gemology: preserving the elegance and yield of rectangular stones while improving light return. Rather than adding more facets, Jacob & Co. approached the challenge through geometry. The result is a cut in which every proportion, every angle, and every transition has been engineered with discipline and intention.
The Angel Cut features 37 precisely calibrated facets, still significantly fewer than many traditional diamond cuts, yet each facet has been positioned to maximize optical performance. At its center lies a distinctive lozenge-shaped table, set within a stepped rectangular outline with cut corners. This signature geometry changes the way light behaves inside the stone. Instead of moving in a more static or linear pattern, light is directed, modulated, and returned with heightened control—creating a visual effect that is at once crisp, fluid, and unusually dimensional.
Its brilliance is not aggressive. It is composed.
The Angel Cut produces a luminous field with reduced extinction, softened contrast, and a more continuous glow across the surface of the diamond. Carefully calibrated crown height, pavilion depth, and facet alignment promote controlled internal reflection and strong upward light return, especially important in environments where light access is limited, such as gem-set watch cases. In these settings, the cut performs with exceptional discipline, preserving life and radiance even within highly complex structures.
The result is a diamond that feels architecturally precise yet emotionally alive: bright without sharpness, fiery without fragmentation, and elegant without stillness.
“It took two full years of refinement to bring the Angel Cut to life,” says Jacob Arabo, Founder and Chairman of Jacob & Co. “We were not interested in creating another variation on an existing theme. It had to be a true invention—something more versatile, more radiant, and more refined. The fact that the cut has 37 facets, coinciding with 37 years of marriage with my wife Angela, gave it an even deeper meaning for me personally. For our 40th anniversary, we wanted to introduce something genuinely new, but also something with soul.”
The Angel Cut also resolves another important tension in diamond cutting: the balance between optical performance and material preservation. Traditional round brilliant cuts often require substantial loss of rough weight in pursuit of light return. Step cuts preserve more yield, but can sacrifice vibrancy and fire. The Angel Cut was engineered to reconcile these opposing demands, adapting efficiently to rectangular rough while preserving integrity and strong visual performance. This balance makes it especially suited to high jewelry and haute horlogerie, where beauty must coexist with precision, durability, and technical rigor.
The First Expression
To introduce this new patented cut, Jacob & Co. presents the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut, the first timepiece ever set with Angel Cut diamonds.
Its 54 x 41 mm white gold case is illuminated by 98 Angel Cut diamonds totaling 51.13 carats, many of them unusually large stones, proportions more often reserved for centerpiece diamonds. The dial extends this uninterrupted architecture of light through a further arrangement of 88 Angel Cut diamonds and baguette-cut stones, framing the twin tourbillon apertures with symmetry and brilliance. In total, the watch is set with 298 white diamonds totaling approximately 79 carats.
Beneath this radiant surface beats the JCAM50 hand-wound caliber, a movement composed of 460 components and defined by two flying tourbillons positioned at 12 and 6 o’clock. Their placement creates a powerful mechanical symmetry beneath the optical symmetry of the gem-setting above. This duality—light and motion, radiance and regulation—lies at the heart of the piece. While the dial is fully paved in diamonds, the movement’s skeletonized architecture reveals itself through the sapphire caseback, offering a second expression of transparency and depth.
Since its debut in 2015, the Billionaire collection has represented the outermost frontier of gem-set watchmaking. From the original 239-diamond tourbillon to the 217-carat yellow diamond Billionaire Timeless Treasure, each creation has expanded the boundaries of gem-set watchmaking. Earlier executions relied on emerald and Asscher geometries to achieve their seamless surfaces of light. With the Angel Cut, Jacob & Co. now introduces a proprietary alternative—one developed not only to adorn, but to outperform.
“The Billionaire has always been our most uncompromising expression of watchmaking and gem-setting,” says Benjamin Arabov, CEO of Jacob & Co. “Launching the Angel Cut within this platform was a deliberate decision. When you develop a patented cut designed to redefine how a diamond interacts with light, it deserves a stage of equal intensity. The Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut is not simply about rarity or carat weight. It is about invention, precision, symmetry, and the confidence to establish a new standard.”
Limited to just 18 pieces, the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut marks more than an anniversary. It marks a new chapter for Jacob & Co., one in which the House moves beyond historic cuts to define its own legacy in light
